I love my Leatherman multitool. Last year I got the bit set and extension for it. Handy! I don’t use them every day, but I do every week.
I’ve been keeping them in my pocket kept together with a hair band. This works well. I just thought I could do better.
Long term I want to do something with leather. But I wanted to test the configuration first.
Time for a duct tape and bubble gum prototype.
A few minutes with some tape and I have something I think I will like. It sits flat in my pocket, curving to my leg. The bits are easy to access yet are protected from the rest of the contents of my pocket.
I printed some parts, sewed some leather onto the parts, hit it with a hammer a few times, and voila! Total Awesomesauce!
I recently picked up a Galaxy SIII because my EVO 3d starting to get a wiggy touch screen. My brother in law gave me a BodyGlove case for it. One of the crazy tough ones – you know, HUGE! I can’t find a belt clip case that fits it. I’ve tried. This thing won’t fit into most cases the wrong way. Did I mention it was rather large?
I have a solar charger battery pack that I incorporated into the case. There is a vinyl window for the solar panel. The charger doesn’t so much charge the phone as give me an additional half an hour of talk time. It’s a nice to have item in a pinch. It’s also a flashlight.
So I guess you can say I have a phone case for my phone case with a built in solar powered flashlight.
This is the finished phone case sitting on a table. I think I actually like it.
Measuring and laying out the leather and my 3d printed ends. You can see the holes in the red ends for sewing them to the leather.
Most of the case will be double layered to protect the phone from the metal fasteners on the outside of the case.
Some duct tape to help hold pieces while assembling the case.
The hole with the piece of vinyl is for a solar charger for the phone.
The belt loop clip is rivited on with most of it on the inside and the clip outside. The hole for the clip is punched on either end and then slit. Hopefully this will keep the leather from tearing.
The window is stitched in. The magnetic latch is attached.
This is the inside. The duct tape area will be the future bottom inside of the phone case.
The small gap is deep down inside the case and isn’t visible when completed.
The red plastic 3d printed ends are sewn into place. This will form the case around the phone.
Sewing these on with a harness needle. Each spot needs to be punched with an awl. The eye of the needle is just a smidgen too big, I kept crushing it and breaking the needles. At a nearly buck a needle, this is irritating.
The case ended up being pretty floppy. So it needed some reinforcing. This plastic tray from the last time I spent a week in the hospital with one of my girls is perfect. Soft, strong, bendy plastic that cuts with a scissors. Sometimes it’s good to keep ‘trash’ like this.
The case isn’t finished, so I can slip the plastic pieces in. It firmed the case up very nicely. Makes it from an utter disappointment to a ‘meh’ project.
Tandy was having an end of the year sale, so I bought a snap set kit so I don’t smash the daylights out of the rivets and snaps anymore. The metal ‘Anvil’ with the bowls for the snap heads is what I was interested in, it would be the hardest part for me to make on my own.
The right tools makes the job SO much nicer. One of the other things I bought was glovers needles. I broke about 8 of the harness needles I was using for the first half of the project. The glovers needles went through my leather without needing to punch holes first.
These snap sets aren’t the right tools for what I was doing. But they are SO much better than what I had before. The washer is an adapter for the mag-snap. I didn’t deform the snaps horribly this time.
The space for the solar charger is defined by the rivets and the larger mag-snap. The window was made bigger by about a quarter of an inch – rip the old window out, make a new one. The Binder clips are to hold the shape while I start sewing the edges.
The solar charger can slip out of the case as needed. The cable for the charger is also stored in this spot, down towards the end. It actually works quite nice in there.
The glossyness to the leather is from an application of neatsfoot oil.
You can see the curves to the printed parts here. This enforces that the phone can go into the case with the screen facing in so it’s less likely to get damaged.
The phone case slips down into the belt case just about perfectly. The curve of the 3d printed pieces matches the curve of the phone case.
The case is rather large on my belt. A buddy keeps telling me “Nice purse”, but I don’t care.
It turned out pretty well for my first mixed-material leatherworking project. (I started my moccasins after I started this, but finished them first. < http://mike.creuzer.com/2013/11/i-caught-the-bug-and-decided-to-make-my-own-moccasins.html >)
I like this setup. Easy up, easy down. pretty functional in the weather too.
I’ve even tested space blankets.
The little ones LOVE the hammock. It’s a lot of fun to hang out in.
I’ve done extensive research on sleeping gear.
I’ve spent the night in the woods with nothing more than a space blanket & really big mosquitoes. It sucked.
This is my older tent. It’s Huge. And Heavy – 47lbs. I could park a car inside if I could figure out how to get it through the door.
I own a couple of large tents. The kids love this one, it has a doggy door and play tunnel on the back side.
I’ve made my own under-quilts for hammocks. This one is a mylar space blanket and green bubble wrap. I’ve used it on single degree nights with a wool blanket on top of me in the hammock. I was cold, but I made it the night.
I’ve made and weighed my home made gear. This is a large tarp made out of window insulation film and duct tape. This tarp is my main shelter now when I go out.
I made a bathtub floor for sleeping on the ground if I was so inclined.
Space Blanket tarp made from 2 cheap blankets taped together and duct tape tie-outs. When used right, it can make the difference between a cold night and a really cold night.
Half a dozen tent stakes.
I’ve even weighed the bag. It was free, I will use it until I find something lighter for cheaper.
Under 4 lbs. for this shelter. Not great, but much better than the 47 lbs tent I hiked a mile into the woods once…
Taken during a ‘Blue Moon’. A clear roof means you can star gaze and stay dry. I turned on the flash so you can see the tarp.
I can’t call this a heat exchanger, as it doesn’t exchange any heat. It just sheds some of the heat from the dryer duct into the room. I am trying to keep some of the heat I paid to create, in the house, where I tend to hang out when it’s cold outside.
I know I’d get better return on the money I spent by feeding the dryer outside air, but I wanted to give this a try. A friend gave me the heat sinks, so I wanted to see if I could find a noble use for them. I love DIY projects anyhow. I kinda liken it to a homemade energy themed work of art.
A picture is worth a thousand words, so here’s a 25k word novelette. (Hey, technically these stereoscopic photos are 2 photos each, so they count double. Just cross your eyes to get your word-count’s worth.).
I currently have 20 of these heat sinks. I fiddled around with them for a while to see how many I can fit on my duct, and I came up with 74. Two rows of 15 down the long, wide face with 14 spaced in between and a row of 15 down each side.
I figured I’d start with the 20 I have, and see if it does anything for me at all before I mangle that many heat sinks.
I rather like this dense arrangement. I’ve knocked all the cooling fans loose for now. I may re-install some of them. Possibly just down the center row maybe? A larger box fan running off the dryer’s timer may work better in the end.
I ended up drilling all the holes with a drill bit from the back side where I had my layout marks. I then de-burred the holes from the front, pushing hard, so I dimpled each hole. This flexed the metal so that the screws would tighten the sheet metal up to the heat sink.
The screws I used where some pan head self tapping sheet metal screws. Ended up not needing the self tapping feature as I had to pre-drill all the holes to keep the metal bits from preventing the heat sinks from coming up tight to the metal. Live and learn. I just ran them between the fins on the heat sink. They seem to hold tight. I hope that if I ever disassemble this thing, I can reuse the heat-sinks in the future. Maybe. Please?
It’s actually surprising how heavy the assembled unit is. A lot of light weight parts makes for a heavy finished product.
Carbon Monoxide poisoning is a risk when doing something like this, so the whole contraption is sealed up tight. I’d feel really bad if I killed myself trying to save a buck.
I tried to keep the inside of the duct as smooth as possible to not collect any lint and cause a fire hazard. I am hoping the shallow screw heads will create just enough turbulence to keep mixing the hotter air with what’s already shed some heat to the walls.
Now I just need to add 2 stainless steel housed thermistors so I can monitor the air intake and exit temperatures. If I see a temperature difference, that means it’s working. I can use a 55 gallon plastic bag to figure out the air flow of the dryer. Some magical maths will tell me how much heat I am dumping into the house vs throwing out with the wash-water (clever, eh?). If I get any good results at all, I will try to collect enough heat sinks over time to finish this project.
54 more heatsinks needed. New price for these appear to range between $10 and $100 (Seriously?!?). Glad I am not damaging the heat sinks too bad, but the dollar value of this project kinda makes me a little sad.