I made a custom leather belt case for my custom wireless charging flip cased Galaxy…

I made a custom leather belt case for my custom wireless charging flip cased Galaxy Note Edge. It's been a fairly drawn out project getting the two cases made – from March until now. But the results are worth the effort.

The main design goal was to not bend my phone when I sit on it in my pocket as it is HUGE I also wanted to show off the nifty 'edge' feature.

I bought all the materials for both aspects of the case at the same time. I will also be making a matching Leatherman holster as well as a 2nd iteration of my home made wallet – http://mike.creuzer.com/2014/07/i-made-a-new-wallet-last-night.html. There will me more scrap leather after that, so I am sure some more projects will come of that 1 piece of leather.

The Wireless Charging Flip Case details are at http://mike.creuzer.com/2015/08/i-few-months-back-i-bought-a-galaxy-note-edge-on-ebay.html

I had made a phone case for a different phone with details found at http://mike.creuzer.com/2014/01/i-made-a-phone-belt-case.html This other case has a built in solar charger which is pretty darn cool. That feature didn't make it into this case as it's not really worth the effort as the solar panel that small takes 3 days to charge and gets me 30 minutes of usage.

Lots of pictures to look at with descriptions for each image with this project.

In album Note Edge belt case

The finished product. The case is designed to make the edge display visible on my phone while it is in the belt case.

A little bit of planning. The black leather is very stiff so I have a strong back to attach the belt clip to.

A bought belt clip and leather, and a pair of 3D printed sides. There are holes in the printed parts so I can sew through them to sew the leather onto the ends.

I drilled holes in the heavy leather for sewing and punched holes for the belt clip. The big hole in the printed plastic is for a hinge for a retaining strap which I don’t think I will need.

The green leather is bonded to the heavy leather. Glue it and sew it. I find my stitching looks neater if I am not fighting the pieces moving while I am trying to sew.

Riveted the belt clip on. I like the fancier rivets.

My rivet job is less than perfect. The flap of green leather on the right is folded over to protect the phone from the rivet bits seen here.

Phone is now protected from the rivets!

Yeah, I make stuff using trash. The green plastic is a bit of Mt. Dew 2 liter soda bottle. When the curve seen here is flattened, it wants to curve 90 degrees off of the main curve. I glued it on so the curve tips the top front out so it’s easier to get the phone in.

You can see how the plastic wants to curve. Big Binder clips are the best assembly tool ever!

2 needles, 6 foot of thread on each side. I really need to make a stitching horse. You can see here how the phone case matches my phone case.

I sharpen my glover’s needles on my diamond sharpener. You can see I have 1 side stitched up. Looks pretty good!

The Galaxy Note Edge in the custom flip case, next to the the custom belt case.

It slides right in, like it was designed for it! Oh, wait, I did design it to do this!

This was my desired end result. Being able to see the ‘edge’ on my phone and the data that it can display.

I found a PowerPotV on ebay

Showed up on Friday. I played with it this weekend in the kitchen. So far I like it. 

Hard boiled eggs, instant oatmeal, tea – which stained the pot, but I am hoping this will stop the rivets in the bottom from corroding into my water.

It's not an UL item. It's big, 1.4 liters and heavy. 18oz is their claimed weight, but I suspect that it's a lot more than that with all the extra bits and bobs that it comes with. I'm going to sew up 2 different stuff sacks for it and weigh it after that.
One will be for the full kit, the other will be for the minimal kit, basically just the pot and charge cable.

I love the concept of solar, I just can't afford anything worthwhile. I also tend to hike in heavy woods so solar is minimally effective anyhow. 

I mentally 'weight-buy' this pot by no going with the large extra battery, solar, etc.

A friend has a biolight. This outputs twice the power at half the weight. Between the two of us, I think we now have some good kit for charging cameras and phones. I will let him carry the biolight…

I made a phone belt case

I printed some parts, sewed some leather onto the parts, hit it with a hammer a few times, and voila! Total Awesomesauce!

I recently picked up a Galaxy SIII because my EVO 3d starting to get a wiggy touch screen.  My brother in law gave me a BodyGlove case for it. One of the crazy tough ones – you know, HUGE!  I can’t find a belt clip case that fits it. I’ve tried.  This thing won’t fit into most cases the wrong way. Did I mention it was rather large?

So, I decided to make one.

With a solar panel.

The openscad source file is on my github, but you can preview the stl at https://github.com/creuzerm/openscad-projects/blob/master/CellPhoneCaseSide.stl It is shaped for the phone case and has holes in it to sew the leather onto.

I have a solar charger battery pack that I incorporated into the case. There is a vinyl window for the solar panel. The charger doesn’t so much charge the phone as give me an additional half an hour of talk time. It’s a nice to have item in a pinch. It’s also a flashlight.

So I guess you can say I have a phone case for my phone case with a built in solar powered flashlight.

Seems absurd when I think about it that way.

So I won’t.

In album Phone Case

This is the finished phone case sitting on a table. I think I actually like it.

Measuring and laying out the leather and my 3d  printed ends. You can see the holes in the red ends for sewing them to the leather.

Most of the case will be double layered to protect the phone from the metal fasteners on the outside of the case.

Some duct tape to help hold pieces while assembling the case.

The hole with the piece of vinyl is for a solar charger for the phone.

The belt loop clip is rivited on with most of it on the inside and the clip outside. The hole for the clip is punched on either end and then slit. Hopefully this will keep the leather from tearing.

The window is stitched in. The magnetic latch is attached.

This is the inside. The duct tape area will be the future bottom inside of the phone case.

The small gap is deep down inside the case and isn’t visible when completed.

The red plastic 3d printed ends are sewn into place. This will form the case around the phone.

Sewing these on with a harness needle. Each spot needs to be punched with an awl. The eye of the needle is just a smidgen too big, I kept crushing it and breaking the needles.  At a nearly buck a needle, this is irritating.

The case ended up being pretty floppy. So it needed some reinforcing.  This plastic tray from the last time I spent a week in the hospital with one of my girls is perfect. Soft, strong, bendy plastic that cuts with a scissors. Sometimes it’s good to keep ‘trash’ like this.

The case isn’t finished, so I can slip the plastic pieces in. It firmed the case up very nicely. Makes it from an utter disappointment to a ‘meh’ project.

Tandy was having an end of the year sale, so I bought a snap set kit so I don’t smash the daylights out of the rivets and snaps anymore. The metal ‘Anvil’ with the bowls for the snap heads is what I was interested in, it would be the hardest part for me to make on my own.

The right tools makes the job SO much nicer. One of the other things I bought was glovers needles. I broke about 8 of the harness needles I was using for the first half of the project. The glovers needles went through my leather without needing to punch holes first.

These snap sets aren’t the right tools for what I was doing. But they are SO much better than what I had before. The washer is an adapter for the mag-snap. I didn’t deform the snaps horribly this time.

The space for the solar charger is defined by the rivets and the larger mag-snap. The window was made bigger by about a quarter of an inch  – rip the old window out, make a new one. The Binder clips are to hold the shape while I start sewing the edges.

The solar charger can slip out of the case as needed. The cable for the charger is also stored in this spot, down towards the end. It actually works quite nice in there.

The glossyness to the leather is from an application of neatsfoot oil.

You can see the curves to the printed parts here. This enforces that the phone can go into the case with the screen facing in so it’s less likely to get damaged.

The phone case slips down into the belt case just about perfectly. The curve of the 3d printed pieces matches the curve of the phone case.

The case is rather large on my belt. A buddy keeps telling me “Nice purse”, but I don’t care.

It turned out pretty well for my first mixed-material leatherworking project. (I started my moccasins after I started this, but finished them first. < http://mike.creuzer.com/2013/11/i-caught-the-bug-and-decided-to-make-my-own-moccasins.html >)

Delta RepRap using both belts and Spectra fishing line

I have this new RepRap 3D printer that I am putting together. It is based on the Rostock style printer. It came to me half assembled, sans electronics. It had been running, but got pirated for parts to make another Prusa.

It has this awesome, expanding, laser cut acrylic case. But the case was set up to only go ‘normal’ Rostock height based on the length of the belts. There is a lot more room on the smooth rods for it to get taller. I just need to make a belt stretcher (I am too cheap to buy longer belts).

I just so happen to have just the thing. I have some fishing line I picked up on clearance a few years ago – $6. It just so happens to be the 65lb Spectra line that people are using to string up their Kossels.

So I decided to do both. Belts for the drive and line for the ‘idler’ side. I also wanted to include the zip-tie tensioner concept I’d seen.

tools and parts to make copper bushings
Making some little copper rings so the line doesn’t cut my belts. I just nipped off a bit of tube left over from my water-cooling experiment and deburred them.
rostock reprap carrage wtih both belts and Spectra fishing line
Here you can see my belt to carriage connection and also the belt to line connection.
rostock reprap with the carriage to the top of the tower.
The fishing line goes over the top pully. I looped mine a couple of times, giving me a total of 4 strands. 260lbs tensile should reduce the stretch and bouncing other people are seeing with just a single line. The Z endstop provides enough gap to allow for the connection.

It turns out, that doing this, you need a belt as long as your smooth rods. Conversely  you can make your smooth rods as long as your belt.

rostock carriage all the way down.
I can drop the carriage right to the ‘floor’ and still not interfere with the coupling.
Rostock Reprap with both belts and Spectra fishing line drive mechanism.
Two of the three towers belted or strung. I’ve not done the back tower. Each one is getting done slightly different, so I can see which I like the best.
reprap rostock zip tie belt tensioner
This shows the zip tie being used to tension the belts. Just take another click on the zip tie, and it’s tighter. I am wondering how long these things will last before they break and what kind of damage that will incur. I may try bailing wire on the next iteration.

image

 

This begs the question. Is this a Rostock or a Kossel? (Looking at the drive, not the smooth rods vs extrusion frame). Rossel? Kostock?

I know I am naming this machine the Solar Scribbler. It will live in my garage workshop for a few reasons.

ABS stinks when printing. I don’t want print ABS in the house again…

The upright rods means that sawdust and crud won’t settle on them near as much. Also the chassis helps keep airborne crud out.

But the garage is getting a few solar panels and some deep cycle batteries installed. So the printer will run on solar power! I figure the deep cycle batteries should be able to power the heated bed to ABS temps without a problem.

My garage also sports a solar hot air panel to heat it fall through spring. The printer will get fitted to the panel to have a solar heated chamber.

So many big plans for this little printer…

Solar Panel Slideshow

Some heat generation numbers for a day that’s  ~10 degrees F outside, 25 degrees in my uninsulated garage:

  • Full overcast but bright – 40 degree air coming out of the panel (+15)
  • Partial sun, enough for shadows – 60 degree air coming out of the panel (+35)
  • Full sun, 90+ degree air coming out of the panel (+70)

 

Here is a full slide show. The previous posts seem to have cut them off after so many photos.

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