I didn’t realize it until last night, but 1 of my windows wouldn’t lock. I can’t have that! It was a 2nd story window, so not a security issue, but the cold air blows through it. I needed to make a shim for the lock.
I happen to have this really cool tool. My 3d printer. It can make parts for me when the weather is too nasty to go to the store (never mind that the stores don’t carry the parts I want).
I took a few measurements, wrote a few lines of openscad code, and 30 minutes later, I had some perfectly fitting window lock plate shims.
The most tedious part was getting good measurements and working the screws with the window right there. Doesn’t leave much room for tools and hands.
The part is so trivial to create that I probably won’t post it to thingiverse… although the new configurator may make it useful for other people.
I am not a fan of cooling fans… I am thinking water cooling the hot end is pretty cool…
Watercooling my MakerGear Prusa RepRap
I’ve been fighting with printing 1.75mm PLA. The thicker brass in the hot end causes the heat to creep up more and make the ‘melt zone’ so long and sticky that the printer jams up…
I’ve been fighting with printing 1.75mm PLA. The thicker brass in the hot end causes the heat to creep up more and make the ‘melt zone’ so long and sticky that the printer jams up. The normal ‘fix’ is to have a small fan blow up into the hot end insulator – the black plastic bit.
This sucks for me. The fans fail – stop spinning, fall apart, etc. The wires pop loose, touch each other, and short out the power mosfet on the RAMPS board. The fan falls down, hits the part, knocks it loose or causes the carriage to skip.
The irritating part is, the printer will eat 3mm PLA all day long without a problem without the need for this fan.
(Stereoscopic images, look at them cross-eyed if you want to see them in 3d)
The task of installing all of this was almost challenging. There was just enough room to be able to slide the hot end up through the carriage, slip on the groove mount, and get it all positioned. The one bolt hole was kinda hiding above the copper tube, but the tube can be spun around a bit so everything can be bolted up snug.
The whole assembly was pretty quick and easy. When I installed the water cooling, I also incorporated the temperature monitoring and soldered the USB cable to the arduino board as the USB-B port got sloppy and would disconnect on me mid-print.
As for some numbers as to how well this works. With no water running through the copper tubing, I am seeing temperatures over 135f after 10 minutes. Yeah, Yeah, I know, RepRaps are metric, but it’s an easy value to convert, go too it. With water running, the top temp I’ve seen is 115f. It likes to run closer to 100-110f. My longest print so far is close to 4 hours without any problems. Without any cooling (and the copper not installed) I’d start to see jamming problems around 1 hour at .1mm layer height. .3mm layer heights would go much longer without problems. I am guessing that the plastic flow volume keeps pushing the heat down the barrel and doesn’t let the transition zone get too long.
I’ve not weighed the copper, tubing and water to see how much extra this weighs over the fan and mounting hardware.
I may run the water around the extruder, X and Y motors to help cool those. Not that they get hot really.
I think I want to mount some SMD LEDs against the tubing for some neat lighting effects. Just so it looks cool.
I've got intermittent failures that looks like a bad USB cable. On three different cables. One thing I've noticed is that there is a lot of wobble in the connector. I think 9 months of having the cable come around to the front of the printer has messed it up. Is there something I can do to fix this? Replace the port? Shim the side with a bit of paper?