I had to leave half way through the print, so I paused the job and powered down the heaters. The print finished ok when i powered the heaters back up, leaving a big blob where the nozzle had sat. Need to lift the nozzle off of the part or something. Last time I tried that though, there was too much ooze and it took a couple of layers before it caught up so the print ended up failing.
I bored out the inside of the z carriages so the rods would no longer push against them. This means that the springs no longer work as they slide past the carriage now.
There are now upper fixed height nuts. The left side isn’t quite snug. If I had been quicker thinking, i would have spun the nut in the captured socket so it meshed with the lower one better. I will shim it with paper instead.
The thick part means that the z limit switch never triggers. Combined with the fixed upper nuts, i drove the z into the bed hard before i hit the reset. I bet i bent my y rods in fixing my z rods!
By the time i get this printer figured out, i am going to need to build a new one as i’d have wrecked this one.
4 z wobble isolators getting printed.
There is a big blob from turning the printer off and back on. I’d picked a spot in the infil, but it still buggered up around the edge.
Drilling out inside the bracket so the bend Z rod doesn’t touch the carriage.
The isolator sits under the Z carriage.
You can release the idler and push more filament through by hand after reheating to re-prime it after oozing while paused. You could also advance the filament from the control panel, then use M114 to read the current E position, advance the filament from the control panel, then use G92 to set the position back to what it was. This method is much better than letting a hot nozzle dwell on your print, and it's also useful for filament changes, when you want to change colors or if you run too low on filament.
You can release the idler and push more filament through by hand after reheating to re-prime it after oozing while paused. You could also advance the filament from the control panel, then use M114 to read the current E position, advance the filament from the control panel, then use G92 to set the position back to what it was. This method is much better than letting a hot nozzle dwell on your print, and it's also useful for filament changes, when you want to change colors or if you run too low on filament.
So that's how you purge the ooze void and not have the printer rewind your purge. Now that somebody told me how to do it, its not that hard. It would be a handy button to have in pronterface.
So that's how you purge the ooze void and not have the printer rewind your purge. Now that somebody told me how to do it, its not that hard. It would be a handy button to have in pronterface.
I thought your plan was to make parts for the 2nd printer using the 1st as soon as you got the first printer working 😉
I thought your plan was to make parts for the 2nd printer using the 1st as soon as you got the first printer working 😉
Yes, that is the plan. But I keep seeming to damage the non-printable parts on this first one.
Yes, that is the plan. But I keep seeming to damage the non-printable parts on this first one.