It didn't work. Too much back pressure, no air came out of the nozzle at all! Just to test the 'fan' theory, half way through the print, I pointed a case fan at the print and it instantly improved in quality.
So, the fan is needed, my first attempt failed miserably.
The fan mount I chose looked quite promising. It mounts around the existing X carriage and directs air towards the print area.
I found myself in a room, with an orange marker, and my cone shaped nozzle. Of course it’s going to become a road cone.
Doesn’t look very good does it? Half way through the print, I turned a larger fan on it, and the square pillars became square shaped and not the shagbark hickory shaped they where before.
A little subtractive modification to my additive manufactured part, and I think I may have something serviceable. Air actually moves through it now.
Love the roadcone style.!
At least the orange cone looked cool!
At least the orange cone looked cool!
just be careful, the previous layer will cool drastically so the molten plastic coming out of the nozzle doesn't fuse quite as strongly with the cool hard plastic, the layers can rip apart with much less force when using a fan. without a fan it's molten plastic onto molten plastic so the result is pretty strong.
just be careful, the previous layer will cool drastically so the molten plastic coming out of the nozzle doesn't fuse quite as strongly with the cool hard plastic, the layers can rip apart with much less force when using a fan. without a fan it's molten plastic onto molten plastic so the result is pretty strong.
just be careful, the previous layer will cool drastically so the molten plastic coming out of the nozzle doesn't fuse quite as strongly with the cool hard plastic, the layers can rip apart with much less force when using a fan. without a fan it's molten plastic onto molten plastic so the result is pretty strong.
just be careful, the previous layer will cool drastically so the molten plastic coming out of the nozzle doesn't fuse quite as strongly with the cool hard plastic, the layers can rip apart with much less force when using a fan. without a fan it's molten plastic onto molten plastic so the result is pretty strong.
just be careful, the previous layer will cool drastically so the molten plastic coming out of the nozzle doesn't fuse quite as strongly with the cool hard plastic, the layers can rip apart with much less force when using a fan. without a fan it's molten plastic onto molten plastic so the result is pretty strong.
Mark – thanks for the insights. I was having troubles with the 'pillars' on my calibration cube staying molten for a cm or more so the whole thing would wobble around as a new layer was being added to it. Very strong, as you pointed out, but very ugly!
Like everything here, it's a matter of sorting it out and understanding the compromises.
Mark – thanks for the insights. I was having troubles with the 'pillars' on my calibration cube staying molten for a cm or more so the whole thing would wobble around as a new layer was being added to it. Very strong, as you pointed out, but very ugly!
Like everything here, it's a matter of sorting it out and understanding the compromises.
Is it a speed issue? keep the heat on to allow the bonding, but not moving as quickly. just a thought from some that can barely print in 2D 🙂
Is it a speed issue? keep the heat on to allow the bonding, but not moving as quickly. just a thought from some that can barely print in 2D 🙂
skeinforge is your friend: http://wiki.bitsfrombytes.com/index.php/Skeinforge#Cool
skeinforge is your friend: http://wiki.bitsfrombytes.com/index.php/Skeinforge#Cool
I just turned on the Slic3r cooling. Trying to get a feel for the settings and what bits I need to twiddle
I just turned on the Slic3r cooling. Trying to get a feel for the settings and what bits I need to twiddle